Budapest. A City of Two Halves. Literally!

Being one of the largest cities in the European Union we were excited to see what Budapest had to offer a young couple on their first trip together. What we discovered was that the city more than catered for our vast range of interests and expectations. With a rich historical culture, from its range of architecture to its many natural thermal spas, Budapest presented opportunities to explore a modern city alongside delving into its intriguing history. Split in half by the river Danube, Budapest became unified in 1873 when Buda and Óbuda on the west bank and Pest on the east bank joined to form what we know today as Budapest.

Arriving in Budapest at lunch time on a Friday we had no idea how much we could pack into our four day trip. Opting to take the local bus from the airport, rather than the more convenient taxis, we were quickly immersed in the City’s culture. After a few minutes battle with the ticket machine we purchased two single tickets to Kőbánya-Kispest (Bus 200E). On arrival we took the metro into the City Centre, choosing to pick a stop right in the centre and explore from there towards our hotel. The trip from the airport was quick and it was simple to navigate the metro and ride alongside the locals.

Our first port of call was to head to the riverside. The views from the Pest side of the Danube, across to the west bank, showed all that the Buda side of the city had to offer in its full splendour. From the spectacular Freedom Statue perched on Gellért Hill, the classical silhouette of Buda Castle, to the wondrous views of the Fisherman’s Bastion, there were plenty of photo opportunities as we wandered along the riverside.

With so much to offer across the water it would have been easy to have missed the sites closer to us on the Pest bank but nothing could distract from the magnificent Hungarian Parliament Building. At 268m long, including 10 courtyards, 29 staircases and 691 rooms this is truly a spectacle of construction.

As an introduction to the city, a walk along the river was a pretty impressive one.

We had booked ourselves into the Hotel President for three nights, just a short walk from the Hungarian State Opera House. After sauntering along the Danube and stopping for a well earn beer we checked in and took advantage of the Hotel’s pool and sauna. We had booked a river siteseeing cruise when we arrived, so after relaxing in the spa, we were well rested and looking forward to jumping on board.

We had chosen to dismiss the more extravagant river cruises offering dinner or live music, for a more casual affair and we were so glad we did. Despite a rather cheesy Americanised commentary we enjoyed a brief history of the city and an introduction to its sites and many striking bridges.
After disembarking we were eager to try out the local food and wine options. Knowing very well that we would pay the premium price for the stunning view, we plumped for one drink on a river boat bar overlooking the castle. It was worth the price, which in fact was not so far above the average UK price and were treated to live music.

Following this we wandered back through the city streets until we stumbled upon a small traditional Hungarian restaurant. Filling ourselves with Goulash and washing it down with some very palatable Hungarian red wine, we returned to our hotel room just after midnight feeling very contented with our first day of exploring.

After taking advantage of the breakfast available in the hotel we headed out with an ambitious plan for our first full day. We planned to walk past the Parliament building, cross the river at Margaret Bridge and explore the entire Buda side of the city.

Passing various eye-catching churches, all of which offered diverse designs, we heading to the Gothic tower of the Mathias Church and the Fishermen’s Bastion. With some tough competition, the Fishermen’s Bastion became my favourite structure. There was something almost magical about its construction that made it feel like it was part of a fantasy film. There’s no doubt that the stunning views from its many arches contributed greatly to this sensation.

After discovering the delights of Mathias Church, including the display of a mummified foot, we meandered towards the Castle of Buda. While taking a few side streets and getting somewhat lost we found Dracula’s Labyrinth. This was not something we had read about while researching what to do and see in Budapest but for me it was an unexpected treat. After paying the entrance fee of a few pounds we entered the Labyrinth and immediately wondered if we had made a mistake. The first few dark and gloomy pathways led to some sad and somewhat creepy looking wax works that had seen better days. But continuing deeper into the Labyrinth it was clear that the value of this experience was not the displays but the venue itself. As we ventured further, through pitch-black caves we found ourselves lost within the Labyrinth; ominous light and operatic music adding to the atmosphere of how it would have felt to be imprisoned here in years gone by.

After a few wrong turns and countless times retracing our steps, we escaped the Labyrinth and continued on our journey towards Buda Castle.

Buda Castle had much to offer beyond its remarkable architecture; museums, cafes, gardens and the inevitable gift shop. If that wasn’t enough, just around the corner, there is The Hospital in the Rock. This is the hospital built into the caverns under the castle in the 1930s in preparation for World War II. With panoramic views from Castle Hill there is no shortage of awe-inspiring scenery. For those less inclined to walk up to Buda Castle there is the Castle Hill Funicular, which is an experience in itself having first opened in 1870.

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On our way down from the Castle, having heard about it on the river cruise the night before, we stopped at the Cave Church, located inside Gellért Hill. This was a small church carved into the walls of a cave which still holds regular services. Asides from a rather stern looking nun, who seemed to dislike the tourists wandering around her place of worship, it was lovely to explore this hidden gem.

Having heard that the views from the Liberty Statue were best appreciated at night, we opted to wander on the Pest side of the river, to wait until darkness. Here we participated in a tourist trap I had always wanted to try: the Ice Bar. After buying a ticket and layering up with thermal capes and gloves we headed inside where everything from the walls and chairs, to the bar and glasses were made from ice. Though expectedly expensive, it was a fun experience and something I’m glad I tried once, but would admit I’d never do again.

When darkness had fallen over the city we headed pasted the famous Gellért Bath, up Gellért Hill to the Statue of Liberty and the Citadel. Though tired from walking over 10 miles during the day we hiked to the top and the sights were worth the effort. Looking down at the city and down the river and its numerous illuminated bridges we were in awe of how far we had ventured that day and all that was still left to explore.