San Juan Travel Guide

It’s not hard to tell that Puerto Rico is a U.S. territory — the dollar is the reigning currency, and you’ll never want for a McDonald’s Big Mac. Get beyond that, though, because of all America’s Caribbean islands, Puerto Rico offers the most exotic aura. Its culture blends indigenous Taino traditions with European and African influences, creating unique cuisine, music and art. Folks who have traveled to Cuba say that Old San Juan reminds them more of Cuba, at times, than Cuba itself! San Juan is also very Spanish (think Seville) and even a bit Italian (reminiscent of Naples). Finally, the city evokes just a wee taste of Buenos Aires.

San Juan’s biggest appeal is its exquisitely preserved old city, which dates back to the 16th century. Its sprawling forts, cobblestone streets, antique shops and art galleries make it an ideal first stop. And even for repeat visitors, it’s worth a second look; Old San Juan is undergoing an awesome renaissance. If you haven’t visited lately, you’ll be amazed at how beautiful and spiffed-up its European-style buildings are, particularly the many that are freshly painted in cheerful pastels of lavender, blue, yellow and pink.

Old San Juan’s main attractions include the imposing El Morro fort, which dates back to 1539; the Cathedral of San Juan Bautista, where the island’s first governor, Ponce de Leon, is buried; La Fortaleza, the oldest governor’s mansion on U.S. soil; several colonial plazas; and the triumvirate of Calle del Cristo, Calle San Jose and Calle Fortaleza for shopping. Calle del Cristo, in particular, is chock-full of art galleries, artisan studios and distinctive boutiques.

San Juan Attractions

San Juan Restaurants

San Juan has a truly cosmopolitan restaurant scene, with culinary options from around the globe. But if you’re looking for local favorites, you’ll find plenty of arroz con pollo (chicken with rice), empanadillas (fried turnovers filled with meat or seafood) and many varieties of plantains. Medalla Light is the local beer, and while Bacardi is the better-known rum produced in Puerto Rico, the locals prefer Don Q — an equally (if not more) venerable brand.

The Parrot Club is the restaurant that inspired San Juan’s gourmet revolution, and while it’s a bit more passe these days, it’s one of the few in the trendy SoFo (south of Fortaleza restaurant district) to open daily for lunch. It’s known for its Nuevo Latino cuisine, and it often hosts live Latin jazz performances.

Also in the aforementioned SoFo area, one of the most popular restaurants is Marmalade, which offers a U.S.-inspired menu — think Maine lobster and Hawaiian sea bass — as well as a wine bar. There’s an extensive vegetarian menu.

Aguaviva is another trendy place; the specialty here is seafood, and it has an extensive oyster/ceviche bar. (Note the whimsical, jellyfish-like chandeliers.)

Dragonfly, a fabulous Latino-Asian restaurant, offers Korean kimchee dragon fajitas, Peking duck nachos, and a variety of sushi, dim sum and noodles.

Bagua is a local favorite in Condado, offering a creative menu of Puerto Rican dishes such as plantain-crusted mahi mahi. Past diners rave about the sangria and the ceviche.

A good spot for a light, healthy lunch or dinner is St. Germain Bistro & Cafe, where you can choose from a selection of sandwiches and salads — like the Arabian (pesto chicken, grape tomato and hummus on pita bread) or the Ginny (mixed greens, shrimp, carrot, tomato and parmesan cheese with a ginger vinaigrette). Also on the menu are quiche and crepes.

Shopping in San Juan

You’ll certainly find plenty of craft and T-shirt shops in Old San Juan (particularly along Fortaleza and San Francisco Streets). One tip: The farther east you walk (going away from the cruise pier), the more interesting the shops and restaurants become. Looking for souvenirs? Pick up a top-notch bottle of Bacardi or Don Q rum. We also love the artisan crafts that are showcased at the Plaza Arturo Somohano in downtown Old San Juan.

One great street for window shopping is Calle Cristo; highlights include Magia (99 Calle Cristo), where the artisan owner crafts works of art from recycled objects — old mirrors, wooden shutters, antique windows and even pocket-sized religious icons.

A new find on our most recent visit to Old San Juan was the pocket-sized Plaza Arturo Somohano. Just a block behind the Sheraton Old San Juan (located at pier central), this tree-shaded park is home to artisans who sell handmade and designed crafts. They must be approved by the government to open stalls (no “made in China” stuff here). While vendors vary, on my trip there were beautifully scented soaps from Taino Soapworks (the anise lavender is a favorite), hand-tooled leather belts, pretty (and reasonably priced) beach-glass jewelry, gourds and coconut shells, and charming burlap handbags.

Plaza Las Americas, located in the central business district, is the island’s largest shopping mall and is home to the only Macy’s in the Caribbean. There are more than 300 stores here, including familiar names like Banana Republic, Gap, Sears and Brooks Brothers.

–written by Carolyn Spencer Brown